Stop Motion Video

Here is my one-minute stop motion animation video:

Once again, I decided to use abstract movements to animate in images. The video was created with a combination of my interest in animation and the visual arts. I also composed and mixed the soundtrack using an upright-grand piano and a handy synthesizer.

Enjoy!

Stop Motion Test

Here's is my second short stop-motion video:

Enjoy!

Stop Motion (first attempt)

Just a test, but still a small slice of awesome!

Featuring: Stephanie, Jonathan, and Amy

Special Effects in Post-Production

Using ten individual photos taken outside Dawson College (see photos here), I created a basic panorama that I later edited into a "planet" panorama all while using the Photomerge feature in Photshop CS6 and Photoshop Elements 9.

Here is the original panorama:

 

 

 

And after some resizing and applying the Polar Coordinates Distort filter:

 

 

 

Voila! A work of art!



Creative Portrait Series

Here is my creative portrait series featuring my good friend Alicia:

Manipulate an Image

Today's class was dedicated to editing and creatively manipulating five of our own photos using Photoshop Elements. In this post, I have listed each of my selected photos with a copy of their transformation (and how I did it)!

Launch PSE > Edit

File > Open > Select 5 images > Open

#1. The Hockey Player

Original

Enhanced

Image > Rotate > 90 degrees left
Image > Crop > Crop desired region
Enhance > Adjust Lighting > Brightness/Contrast > Brightness raised to 50
Enhance > Adjust Color > Remove Color Cast > Select white of backdrop

#2. Makeshift Collage

Original

Enhanced

Image > Crop > Crop desired region
Enhance > Adjust Color > Adjust Hue/Saturation > Saturation raised to 35
Enhance > Adjust Lighting > Brightness/Contrast > Contrast raised to 80
Filter > Filter Gallery > Stylize > Glowing Edges > Edge Width 5 > Edge Brightness 7 > Smoothness 12.

#3. Group Portrait

Original

Enhanced

Image > Crop > Crop desired region
Enhance > Adjust Color > Remove Color Cast > select white of background
Enhance > Adjust Lighting > Brightness/Contrast > Brightness raised to 5 > Contrast raised to 25
View > Zoom In (22%) > Magnetic Lasso > Select needed area
Select > Inverse
Enhance > Adjust Color > Remove Color
Select > Refine Edges > Smooth 100% > Feather 88px > Contract/Expand +4%
Enhance > Adjust Lighting > Levels > Input Levels 35/1.30/226

#4. Vintage Vinyl Art

Original

Enhanced

View > Zoom In > Clone Stamp Tool > Fix blemishes > Spot Healing Brush > Mouse over blemishes
Enhance > Adjust Lighting > Brightness/Contrast > Brightness raised to 75 > Contrast raised to 100
Filter > Filter Gallery > Craquelure > Crack Spacing 10
Enhance > Adjust Lighting > Brightness/Contrast > Brightness raised additionally to 60
Enhance > Adjust Lighting > Levels > Input Levels 0/1.00/217

#5. Self-Portrait

Original

Enhanced

Image > Crop > Crop desired region
Enhance > Adjust Color > Remove Color Cast > Backdrop color selected
Enhance > Adjust Lighting > Brightness/Contrast > Contrast raised to 35
Zoom Tool > Spot Healing Brush Too > Remove unwanted blemishes

Focal Length

Time to experiment with the focal length of a digital camera!

The focal length of my Olympus VR-340 is ranged from 4.2 to 42.0mm.
Here's an example of a group portrait using the wide angle and the telephoto zoom of my camera (while avoiding any digital zoom):

 

Wide-Angle

Telephoto

For the group portrait, I prefer the result of the wide-angle shot simply because the subjects of the photograph (my classmates) are less contrained and the overall shot feels much more open. The telephoto zoom gives the image a border that visually confines the subjects.

 

However, the telephoto zoom allows each of the subjects to be of equal importance, regardless of which photograph I prefer, the telephoto zoom capture exactly what is needed and not any unnecessary backdrop.

Wide-Angle

Telephoto

Without critiquing the slighly blurry telephoto image quality, both photographs have a unique element about them that make them appealing. The wide-angle shot brings the central focus on Marlee and leaves the background revolving around her. The distance between each of them is equal, but in this image, Marlee seems to appear extra close to the camera, which is stylistically interest in my opinion.

The telephoto zoom neatly displays my classmates in a uniform focus. One may say that Stephanie is the primary focus (at the back) but generally the portrait is a flat plane without too much depth. A photo like this would be great to manipulate into a drawing (at least that's how I imagine it).

 

Wide-Angle

Telephoto

There's a very obvious difference in these portraits of Stephanie. The telephoto shot is easily the more flattering image, simply because it profiles her face rather than captures her among other elements in the photograph (as the wide-angle shot clearly did). The wide-angle actually appears to be unnatural looking, even without the use of an optical zoom.

After experimenting with both focal lengths, the use for them is clear:

Wide-Angle: Best for shots of scenery and a landscape.

Telephoto: Best for single and group portraits.

See for yourself, it's probably what can make a decent photographer into a good photographer!

 

How my Camera Sees Color in Light

Today, in groups of six, each member of the class had the opportunity to experiment with each main white balance setting under different types of lighting.

The four white balance setting used in this experiment are Daylight, Tungsten, Flurescent, and Auto White Balance (AWB). We took a total of 12 photos, with 4 in each location using daylight, tungsten, and fluorescent lighting seperately.

Daylight white balance will render the photo's color balance warmer in an indoor setting, and neutral while shooting outdoors.

Tungsten white balance will add cool tones to the balance the image from the tungsten's yellow light.

Fluorescent white balance will add warm tones (especially red) to balance out the green of the fluorescent lighting (the color's opposite).

Auto White Balance is set to automatically adjust the white balance based on the surrounding light, and tries to set the photo to a neutral color balance.

Check out the differences between each of our photograph's color balance by clicking here.

Mixing Color in Light

Using a white object I found at home, I mixed color filtered lights to blend into the pure colours of red, green, and blue.

 

To allow your camera to success process the colored lights, be sure to set your camera's white balance setting to "Incandescent".

 

NOTE: I had to seek help from friends, due to my heriditary case of daltonism (color blindness). Either way, this experiment was a lot of fun to do.  

 

Magenta + Cyan = Blue

Magenta + Cyan

 

Magenta + Yellow = Red

Magenta + Yellow

Yellow + Cyan = Green

Yellow + Cyan

Magenta + Cyan + Yellow

Magenta + Cyan + Yellow
 

How to Paint with Light

Painting with light is a simple activity that creates incredible artistic photos.
In digital photography, no paint is necessary to be painter!

It's as simple as waving her cellphone in front of a camera. First, close the lights in your room (dark enough for your cellphone to glow). Decide on a bright light source (a cellphone works well) that will easily glow to expose the movement of your light.

Check your camera settings for a "TV" of "S" preset to adjust the shutter speed. Some cameras will allow you to manually adjust the shutter speed, while others will automatically give the user the option to use either 2, 4, or 10 seconds of shutter speed. For these photos, 2 or 4 seconds of shutter speed will do.

The Cyclops Eye, one of many examples of my group painting with light!

Create a shape or design with your cellphone(s) light to expose the glow in movement.
Have fun with this activity and know that the possibilities are endless. Literally, once I got the hang of the motion of the lights, we were able to create images much like the one above.

Instead of paint, you can paint with strokes of light!

Histograms

Click here to view to my edited photos using the histogram

How to Make a Photogram

Photograms are unique black and white photographs that are easily created with light sensitive paper, a little light, and some chemistry! By applying the electric light of a cellphone to a piece of light sensitve paper in a dark room, amateur phorographers like myself can expose solid and transparent objects into artistic arrangements.

Materials Needed

• Light sensitive paper (either a matte or glossy finish)
• Objects to cover your surface (solid and transparent)
• 4 trays (large enough to submerge the sheets)
• Tongs
• A light source (cellphone lights work well)
• Developer
• Stop Bath (to stop the developing process)
• Fixer (to perserve your photogram)
• A place to wash the completed photograms (an empty sink)
• A print dryer (to dry the final product after washing)

Where to Expose the Photogram

Any light that shines on the light sensitive paper will expose an image onto the sheet, therefore photograms must be completed in the classic, one-and-only dark room available near you! The room must be free from any exterior light, or light from any electronic devices until the cellphone light is needed to expose the image.

PROCEDURES

 

Step 1: Prepare the developer, stop bath, and fixer into the three separate trays. Set the empty fourth tray aside to be used later.

 

Step 2: Close the lights! Ensure that your work space/room lacks any external light. It is best to ask a friend to stand by the door to prevent any intruders from ruining your process with the outside light.

 

Step 3: Once the lights are completely shut, take out your piece of light sensitive paper and lay it flat on your work table.

 

Step 4: Arrange your objects onto the paper. This can be a simple arrangement of objects side by side, or an artistic vision straight from you!

 

Step 5: When ready, expose your objects with your light source and count up to ten seconds. Depending on the brightness of the light, ten seconds might be too long as an exposure time. Adjust accordingly, and record the distance between the light source and your objects.

 

Step 6: Remove your objects and place the sheet into the developer for 60 seconds (while gently agitating the tray to refresh the chemicals on the paper repeatidly).

 

Step 7: Using the tongs, remove the paper out of the developer, allow the excess liquid to drip off momentarily, and place the paper into the stop bath for 30 seconds.

 



Step 8: Repeat step 6, and place the paper into the fixer for 2 minutes. After a minute, you may open the lights again.

Step 9: Place the finished photogram into the empty tray.

Step 10: Wash the photogram in a sink with lukewarm water for 15 minutes, while constantly reapplying the water to the paper's sureface.

Step 11: Insert the washed and wet photogram into a print dryer. Wait for it to dry, and you've successfully made a photogram!

Some problems you may encounter:

If your photogram is too dark... your light source is either too strong, or should be used for a shorter duration in exposure.

If your photogram is too light... your light source could either be stronger or should be used for a longer duration in exposure.

Above is one of my best photograms, using objects that I carry with me every day.

Check out my full album of photograms by me and my fellow classmates right here!

Image Resolution

Here's an overview of the basics of image resolution. Although every digital camera's settings and functions will vary, all brands and camera models follow a single system.

Let's use my consumer grade camera as an example:

I recently purchased an Olympus VR-340, which included a 4GB memory card. At the moment, my camera contains 281 captures (individual photos) that I previously took. After reviewing my camera's function settings, the highest pixel resolution available is a 4608x3456 format at a 16 megapixel weight. The lowest pixel resolution is 640x480, which is abbreviated under "VGA." Since my camera does not list the lowest weight in megapixel units, I researched the term "VGA" and discovered it is actually 0.3 megapixels in size.

And while accounting for my existing captures currently stored on my camera, 281 captures with 4GB of memory in total leaves me 246 more photos left to take at the absolute highest resolution (4608x3456). At the lowest resolution (640x480), my camera informs me that I can still take 9999 photos, but I can take far more than ten thousand photos. This means that with 4GB of memory, the lowest resolution will create images will weight so small that my camera cannot tell me the maximum amount of photos remaining.

This information can come in handy! I would rather use a higher resolution when I will eventually print my photos later. That way, I can receive a clear precise image that seems more presentable. The low resolutions can be useful for sending photos by email or even uploading photos to the Web.

No wonder Facebook photos are never great to print!

-Alexander

1st Blog Post

To kick-start this blog for my Digital Photography class, here's a piece of my own photography taken in Italy last summer:

My great-aunt and my grandfather discussing the harvest

I spent over forty days in southern Italy to discover my family roots. At any time of day, at any given moment, I captured nearly everything with my camera. By the end of my journey, I had taken over two thousand photos.